HISTORY OF AFRICAN PRINT FABRICS

  Many centuries ago, hair form animals were woven to insulate and protect homes. Hair, along with fibers from various plants and trees, were used to create bedding, blankets, clothing, and wall, window and door hangings. As textiles became more sophisticated, they were also used as currency for trading. Many of the ancient designs and weaving methods are used today and remain an important part of African lifestyles.  

     African print fabrics actually originated in Indonesia and were exported to the Gold Coast and then spread over West Africa into Central Africa. They became extremely popular and over time the Africans customized and personalized their own designs. Today, African wax print fabrics are primarily made in Ghana or Mali, and they have a strong cultural, social and economic importance.

     But the vibrant colors and patterns are everyday fair for many people in West African countries. The trend toward wax prints on the runway has been brewing for several seasons, with designers of all backgrounds using the vibrant prints in their collections. Still, it was the Burberry S/S 2012 collection that gave the trend the office “industry” stamp of approval.

     African print products are prime subjects for companies that peddle “fair trade” wares. The idea is that the people, who make the items, in developing countries, are paid well – rather than exploiting the vast differences in economic power between the producers and consumers of the item.

     African prints were produced across Europe and exported to Africa, with African Customers driving the trade. Since the 1960s factories have been established in Ghana and other African countries from Senegal to the Congo. Today, all of the European factories have closed down, except Vlisco in the Netherlands. The Manchester-based factory ABC (Arthur Brunnschweiler and Company) transferred its UK production recently to a sister company in Ghana. However ABC designers in Manchester continue to create patterns for the African wax print factories and visit local markets to gain inspiration and market feedback. When a design in metallic ink is rolled over the top of a printed or solid color fabric a GOLD PRINT is the result. Sometimes the gold design is tied in with the images or design on the cloth, sometimes not.”

     African wax print fabrics are made by printing the patterns in wax on the cloth and then dyeing the fabric. The fabric, which is 100% cotton, soaks up the dye excluding the portions where the dye was applied. The wax is broken off by machine. Patterns are then printed on the fabric again with other colors. 

     The numbers of times patterns are printed on the fabric again depend on the design. New ideas and more modern techniques of production mean scores of designs are produced every year by makers of these fabrics. Many of the designs found on fabrics depict events, proverbs, persons of importance or local flora and fauna.

     African Prints Fabrics are mostly found in Cote d’Ivoire, Ghana, Senegal and Nigeria. They can also be found in many Central and Eastern African countries.